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There’s something to be said for visiting a five-star restaurant when the city is in the grip of an ice storm: the other scheduled patrons have canceled their reservations to hide under quilted sheets over hot toddy; and so the chef and his staff, having braved the dreadful weather to bravely show up for work, will be very Happy to see you there, and they will go above and beyond to stand on their heads to express their gratitude, serving you exceptional meals with exemplary service.

This was my visit, on a windy winter day this December, to premium ocean, Cameron Mitchell’s stylish 2006 creation on Cedar Springs Road across from the Crescent Court Hotel on the northern edge of downtown Dallas. The staff were so happy to see us, and our praise after an excellent meal was such, that while we drank our coffees, Executive Chef Eugenio Reyes personally came out to bow and chat with us for a few minutes. He is a gifted artist.

Upon arrival it was clear that my dining partner and I had the place to ourselves. There was another table, this one with five guests, on the other side of the room. My host kindly selected a table away from the door and any errant gusts of icy wind that might have eluded the porter. Our server was Shelby Griffing, a five year veteran of premium ocean and an expert guide to dine there.

When Shelby suggested that the chef was excited about a plate of shoulder lamb chops (the popular American name for French-style bone-in rack of lamb chops), my ears perked up. On a day like this, do you really want to order from the menu? After all, the chef is alone in the kitchen and is dying to show off his favorite dish. Why disappoint him or yourself? Under such conditions, go with the will of the restaurant. One must listen carefully and unless you are allergic to the special, it is wise to select it. The chef, in these circumstances, is going to go the extra mile to shine. In fact, many years of dining in high-end restaurants have taught me that the best meals are eaten on those occasions when one can “bond,” so to speak, with the kitchen staff. Never take good cooking for granted. Always listen. My father once remarked to me decades ago that he could always best gauge a man’s character by watching the way he treated waiters. That’s how it is.

To be honest, I’m not particularly fond of lamb, despite my years in North Africa, because it takes special skill to cook it correctly and it’s such a staple in so much of the world that its preparation is often indifferent. Too often, too, “lamb” really means “lamb.” Lamb is often stringy, tough and unpalatable, the kind of meat that puts Inland Australians in a bad mood. I usually go to Premium Ocean eat fish, as there are very few good fish restaurants in Dallas. i’m partial to Ocean Prime Blackened redfish, which they serve with corn spoon bread and a jalapeno corn tartare. I’ve ordered it half a dozen times.

But there was something about Shelby’s description of the shoulder lamb chops that made them irresistible, and both my lunch partner and I ordered them. To open up the palate, I have a trio of simply outstanding Vietnamese for an appetizer. prawnsor giant shrimp, served in the traditional tomato sauce with a little Tabasco.

And then came those shoulder lamb chops, five little ones served piping hot. we were not disappointed. For starters, the ingredients were absolutely the best, before Eugenio Reyes worked his magic on it in the kitchen. These were the best and most tender wild woolly lamb chops Oregon has ever produced (as good, if not better, than Colorado, which is the usual place for the best American lamb). It is often true, both in the kitchen and in other activities of life, that the best ingredients are more than half the battle. But the way Chef Reyes prepared these chops was extraordinary and, in my experience, unique.

Instead of the traditional lamb recipe, or a variation of it, in which they are coated with rosemary and salt, these were served in a clear raisin-based reduction, very delicate and slightly sweet. Absolutely out of this world! The lamb chops were served with tiny potatoes the size of marbles. I have never had lamb with a hint of sugar or raisins before, except maybe once or twice in Morocco. It was a pleasure, and I will remember it.

I then asked Chef Reyes why these lollipop chops are not on the regular menu, and he replied quite reasonably that it is simply not possible to get the desired quality of chops on a daily basis (although they are generally available) and that, too, respecting inclinations For his Texas customers, lamb isn’t something Dallas people want to order every day, no matter how good it is. I think this is wise.

We finished our lunch with a magnificent and very generous homemade crème brûlée with berries, a rich vanilla flan enclosed in a shell of caramelized sugar. Then I had an espresso with lemon peel.

Executive Chef Eugenio Reyes is a man of great culinary talent. Before assuming the helm in premium ocean, was a sous-chef here, but also traveled regularly to other Cameron Mitchell restaurants around the country to train staff. He began his career in Columbus, Ohio, at Mitchell’s ocean club restaurant. After leaving his native Mexico years ago, Reyes began his life in American kitchens at the bottom of the ladder, as a dishwasher, dreaming of the day he could become a cook himself. Over a two-decade career, he has learned more and more.

I generally avoid chains, but Cameron Mitchell’s ten locations aren’t really chain in the sense that each restaurant has adapted to its host city. Mitchell plans to open his eleventh restaurant, this one in Beverly Hills, California, in early 2014.

Cameron Mitchell’s public relations team has stated that “Premium Ocean is the culmination of a creative exercise we began in 2006 to define the best in food, beverage, service and atmosphere” in Dallas, and I think it’s fair to say they’ve succeeded.

premium ocean It is at 2101 Cedar Springs Road in Dallas (75201) at the corner of Pearl and across from the Crescent Court Hotel. Even on days when the weather is bad, it is always advisable to make a reservation: (214) 965-0440.