Cabinet installation, whether in a kitchen, laundry room, or utility cabinets in a garage, all have the same basic set of installation requirements. Some simple tools are required and are found in most handyman tool bins. Pencils, good carpenters at four feet, tape measure, screw gun, several Quick C-clamps, and a chalk line is a great start. If you have use of a builders level tripod (or can rent one for a day), this will speed up the job a lot. Starting at either end of the cabinet set, make a pencil mark four feet above the floor. Now using the four foot level, transfer that mark along the wall to the other end of the cabinet run and make another pencil mark. Measure to the floor to see if it is four feet above the floor. If it is exactly four feet, then your floor is level. If you’re taller than four feet, you know the floor slopes toward that end. If you start the cabinets at that low end, you won’t be able to keep the cabinets level before you “bump” the floor. If you start at the four foot end you started with, you will be able to shim the cabinets so that they all remain the same height above the floor.

If your cabinets have what is called a four inch high kick feature, you may have the option of lowering this four inch height to make up for a small difference in floor heights. Be careful as cutting too much can make cabinets look squat. If the cabinets came with a separate set of skirting already framed, this also makes leveling much easier. Simply extend the base cabinet supports and check that they are level. A few minor shims or cuts to provide a perfect subbase make base cabinet installation a breeze. You don’t have to worry if each cabinet is level as the bases will do this automatically.

Once the subbases for the lower cabinets are in place I recommend installing the upper cabinets next as it’s just easier. Once the wider base cabinets are installed, the narrower upper cabinets are more difficult to work with. Simply measure from the sub-base to get the top of the cabinets, add the thickness of the counter, add the space you want between the lower and upper cabinets (usually eighteen inches), and make a pencil mark. That is the bottom of your upper cabinets. Since your subbase is level, simply transfer the upper cabinet mark along the run and you have a mark to place the bottom of each upper cabinet. Next, locate all the wall studs and make a vertical mark using your level that protrudes both above and below the cabinets.

This way you won’t be reaching for a stud while standing on a ladder and balancing a cabinet.

It’s a few minutes of work well spent. Next, remove all the cabinet doors and mark each one which cabinets it belongs to as well.

If you’re working alone, take a one-by-two-inch piece of lath and screw it into the wall flush with the bottom of the upper cabinet mark. You will be able to rest the cabinet on the furring while you plumb it and fasten it to the wall. Starting with the first cabinet, go ahead and screw the cabinet securely to the studs with three-inch drywall screws. You can countersink or spun them or use screw washers depending on what you want the final look to be.

Attach two C-clamps to the first cabinet, lift the second cabinet into place, and using the C-clamps, securely attach the stud from the front face of the first cabinet to the second. The combination of the wall furring strip and the two clamps will allow you to loosen and do the job of securing the second cabinet to the wall and to each other. Making sure the front faces are perfectly flush with each other and the heights match up perfectly, standard practice is to pre-drill a screw hole behind the door hinge. Using drywall screws again, insert a screw into the hole making sure the screw will not drive through the stud of the other cabinet (too long). Place a screw behind each hinge. Now fix the second cabinet to the wall and then release the clamps. This same scenario is repeated until reaching the end of the cabinets. You may have gaps where there is a window, but your furring strip will ensure that both sections are mounted at the same height.

With the upper cabinets mounted, go ahead and install the base cabinets in exactly the same way. Each cabinet was bolted from side to side and then to the wall. Once all the cabinets have been installed, go ahead and install your countertops. Backsplash work, electrical connections for microwaves or range hoods and their actual installations must be done before reinstalling the doors. You want to handle doors carefully, as they are the bulk of what people actually see. Level the doors, install the drawer and door pulls, and you’re done.

Almost all municipalities require a building permit for this type of work, since in a kitchen it involves plumbing, electricity, perhaps heating, and possible structural changes as well. A set of working garage storage cabinets may not include any of these items, but be sure to ask first.

pete ackerson
Your friendly building inspector
http://www.wagsys.com
BICES-Building Inspection and Code Compliance System Software

Jackfield ware is a type of earthenware known for its lustrous black lead glaze similar to Japanese black lacquer wares. It was named for Jackfield, a town in Shropshire, England, where a pottery factory founded by Richard Thursfield produced remarkable earthenware pieces made of clay, black-glazed, and decorated with oil paint or gilt in 1713. Thursfield was succeeded by his son, Maurice, under whom the best examples of the craft were made between 1760 and 1772. During 1780, the products of Thursfield pottery were sold and transferred to Coalport.

Early examples of Jackfield pottery can be found with Jacobite inscriptions due to the fact that Shropshire was a place of refuge for worship.

During the 18th century, Jackfield pottery was also made in a number of other well-known centers of pottery, such as Staffordshire, by other great names in pottery history, such as Thomas Whieldon and Josiah Wedgwood. It was Whieldon who was credited with advancing Jackfield’s product manufacturing. In Staffordshire, Whieldon was known to have developed the art of making Jackfield pottery, producing it using a red variety of clay and glazed with a more lustrous luster. Black-glazed pottery soon also began to be made in Namur, Belgium.

Jackfield ceramic is a dense, highly vitreous, high-fired ceramic that generally has thin walls. It is usually glazed both inside and outside. Dating back to its beginnings in Jackfield, it was originally made of gray to purplish-black colored clay. Sometimes, in the examples of lidded pottery, you can glimpse the color of the clay used. The usual motifs used for decoration were moldings of white twigs, flowers, and scrollwork (the scrollwork often bore initials). Jackfield’s wares first became popular as drinking mugs in pubs. Other common examples of Jackfield pottery are coffee or tea cups and pots, pitchers and saucers.

Jackfield pottery was also highly sought after during the Victorian era, between 1837 and 1901. When Queen Victoria used black ware to mourn the death of her husband Prince Albert in 1861, the black sheen of Jackfield wares was it became fashionable It was then that Jackfield merchandise became popular as gifts and souvenirs. They were usually marked in gold with the name of the donor on the left side of the item, and marked with three bars resembling a fleur-de-lis on the right side.

Jackfield pottery was also known through many other nicknames such as black Jackfield, Jackfield type, jet pottery, Victorian jet pottery, black pottery, and Japanese pottery. Although the quality and production of this type of ware is said to have declined after the 1760s, its style was revived in the late 19th century and became popular in teaware and kitchenware.

Granite, like marble and other stones, is as old as the earth. Granite is the second hardest stone (diamond is first) and is created from molten rock. It is found all over the world, in countries like Africa, Asia, Europe and the United States. In addition to its strength, granite is a very beautiful stone that adds color and warmth to a room. A frequent choice of designers for decades, granite countertops have now become popular with the public. There are literally hundreds of colors of granite countertops, including whites, browns, reds, greens, blues, and blacks. The variations of the minerals in each base color create hundreds of possible variations in the base colors.

Home builders and remodelers have experienced an explosion in demand for granite countertops in kitchens and bathrooms. The beauty and warmth of granite make it an ideal material for aesthetic appeal in home design. The natural beauty found in granite countertop colors complements most wood tones or cabinet styles, from rustic to more contemporary styles.

Brown and beige tones are most popular, as they work well with many kitchen color schemes and allow for flexibility in future redecorations. Today, the colors black and blue are becoming more and more popular, with prices reflecting the demand. Some of the granite colors exhibit “motion” or a pattern within the natural color, while others have small patterns. The combination of color and movement means that no two countertops are the same.

Opinions on the color that is best for a kitchen vary. Dark cabinets can be warmed up with a light-colored stone, while light-colored cabinets can be anchored with a dark stone. When choosing granite to add to a kitchen décor, it is best not to make selections from “chips” that the decorator or major retailer has on hand. There is so much variation in the color and movement of each stone that it is important to go to the supplier and look at each stone. The slab must be reserved at the time of decision, or it may not be available at a later time.

When shopping for colors for granite countertops, it is not possible to find a match for a specific color name found in a model home or mentioned in a decorating magazine. There is no fixed list of names or an industry body that regulates the names to be used. The country of origin will have its own name for each color, and then each of the suppliers, manufacturers, installers, and retailers will also have their own name. The numerous color variations on each slab create additional opportunities for new names. Research and visits to providers are needed to help simplify the process. Remember, it is not the name of the color of the granite that matters, it is the mineral qualities present in the stone.

Home is the place where you can escape from the rest of the world and feel comfortable and safe. We tend to make our homes as cheerful, but also as functional as possible. They must allow us to rest, work, cook or eat in decent conditions.

When redecorating or decorating a new home, the ideas and possibilities are limitless. Magazines, Internet sites and even our personal experience will provide us with fun and practical options for both painting and decorating. A house usually covers all the personal needs of its inhabitants. In a single-occupant apartment you will not find as much furniture as in the house of a family with children.

The decoration must be in strict relation to the purpose that a room serves. A bedroom should inspire you to relax, forget about work and sleep. Warm colors usually cover the walls of a bedroom. There shouldn’t be much furniture besides a large bed with nightstands and maybe a wardrobe. Bedside reading lamps in shades of yellow or orange complete the intimate and calm atmosphere of a bedroom.

Decorating a baby’s room is an interesting challenge. The sex of the baby is the starting point in this process. Dictates the variety of colors in the room. Light blue on the walls, with some painted clouds, or perhaps some cartoon fish will provide the emotional comfort a young child needs; of course also a fluffy rug and toy cars everywhere. A little princess will enjoy staying in a room with pink walls painted with flowers or butterflies, where a dollhouse will complete the image of her bed. It is important to use emulsion with little or no odor.

Kitchen and bathroom decorations are more impersonal because these rooms are used by everyone and have a specific purpose. Still, you can choose stylish but practical kitchen furniture in a friendly color, say green, which will revive the look of the room. When a bathroom is for one person, it can be greatly personalized with small delicate cabinets for a girl’s cosmetics and small medleys here and there or with practical shelves for a man.

Depending on your specific case, you can have fun redecorating your home, in the most appropriate way for you or your family. Don’t forget to brainstorm before you start a big transformation of your place. Give your home the colours, furniture and decoration that will make you happy.

The term sapwood stain and blue stain is used in many articles related to rot and wood preservation. One must understand this term as a first step in understanding wood degradation and rot.

What is sapstain?

A tree consists of many parts, but for this brief treatise two terms will suffice, heartwood (physiologically dead wood located near the center of the tree) and sap, which is found on the outer periphery of the tree (physiologically active). Sapwood carries water and nutrients throughout the tree and is therefore a perfect environment for sapwood growth.

When a board or wood is cut from a log, mold spores can come into contact with the nutrient-rich wood with its inherently high moisture content and begin to multiply and spread over the surface of the wood.

As they spread, they create a stain that is normally blue, but can actually be different colors. Over the years I have seen not only blue, but also black, red and yellow.

If this mold/stain is left unchecked, it can penetrate the wood with tendrils and carry the infection deep into the wood(s). They will eventually give off enzymes that will break down the wood and then you have the start of some serious decay. We’re talking about wood that is moist (not dry) and in a nutrient-rich environment. Many people talk about dry rot; but in reality there is no such thing. This is a misnomer. since wood needs to be between 30 and 60 percent moisture content for the decay cycle to begin.

Sap Stain Prevention

To prevent sapwood stain from discoloring the wood, and to prevent further degradation from decay, many sawmills dip the product in a fungicide to prevent mold from attacking the wood. This is particularly important in the humid areas of the United States and its use is highly recommended for high quality and valuable lumber.

Wood that has a high propensity for sapwood stain will not have a smooth finish. The area that has the sap stain will absorb wood finishes more than unaffected areas. So when you finish such a rotten piece of wood, you’ll need to use a series of coats of wood finish to even out the look. For high-quality products, such as furniture or mouldings, wood infected with sapwood is discarded.

If you are installing wood that has mold present, it should be thoroughly washed before applying any type of finish. We are talking about a superficial layer of mold, not a stain that has penetrated deep into the wood. Use a mixture of three quarts of water, one quart of household bleach, and 1/4 cup of liquid dishwashing detergent that does not contain ammonia. Never mix bleach and ammonia, as it will give off dangerous fumes. This formulation can be sprayed using a pump sprayer. After 15 to 30 minutes, it can be washed off with a pressure washer.

Remember that once the stain penetrates deep into the wood, it cannot be removed with bleach or any other product. It’s there to stay. Always remember not to play chemist and experiment by mixing various chemicals, as they could emit dangerous gases… and more!

Armguard – A leather pad worn on the inside of the forearm of the bow hand to protect the arm from the buffeting of the bowstring.

Arrow Plate – An inlay just above the handle on the side of the bow where the arrow passes through as it exits the bow.

Ascharm’ A cupboard in which bows, arrows and archery gear are stored.

Back: The surface of the bow furthest from the archer when the bow is held in the shooting position.

Support: Various materials including: fiberglass, cellulose products, rawhide, etc. glued to the back of the bow to improve its launch.

Backed Boiv: A bow that has had a back attached to it.

Spike: Projection of a hunting head that prevents its easy removal.

Barrel Arrow: An arrow whose shaft tapers from the middle toward each end and which has its greatest cross-sectional area in the middle of the shaft.

Boss or Bast: The twisted, coiled straw back of a target to which the face is attached.

Bow Stave: A billet of wood with which a bow is to be made.

Bowyer: bow maker.

Strap: To string the bow.

Belly: The belly of the bow is the side you see when you hold the bow in the shooting position.

Doubling: The act of reinforcing or placing the rope in the bow nocks.

Cut Arrow: An arrow that has its largest cross section in the stack and tapers toward the nock.

Bodkin: Three-bladed broadheaded arrow.

Broadhead – A flat triangular shaped hunting head made of steel.

Butt: A rear butt to which faces are attached, like bales of straw.

Carriage Bow: A bow that has its two limbs joined under the handle in a splint. It can be disassembled for easy transport. (Shoot down).

Release: The inherent ability of a bow to propel an arrow.

Chest Arrow: An arrow that has its greatest cross section toward the nock and tapers from this point toward the nock and pile.

Chrysal: A compression failure, that is, a fracture of the fibers that usually appears as a line through the belly of the arch.

Influence Target: The standard four foot target magnified twelve times and arranged in a horizontal position on the ground.

Cock Feather: The feather on the arrow that is at right angles to the nock. Usually the feather of strange colors.

Crest: colored bands of variable width and spacing, painted on the arrow for identification purposes.

Crossbow: A short bow set crosswise in a stock, pulled by mechanical means and firing a dart on release of the trigger.

Crosswind: A wind blowing across the target.

Curl: A swirl in the grain of an arc pentagram.

Down Wind: A wind blowing towards the target.

Draw: The act of pulling the bowstring to the full length of the arrow.

Drawing fingers: The first three fingers of the hand used to pull the string.

Draw Weight: The force in pounds required to draw a bow to its full draw.

Drift: The lateral movement of the arrow as it travels towards the target due to a crosswind.

End: A unit number of arrows used in scoring. In the shooting match, six arrows constitute a finish.

Eye-‘ The loop or loops in a bowstring.

Field Captain: The officer in charge of a tournament.

Fingertips – Leather finger posts used to protect the tips of the three firing fingers.

Fistmele: The distance from the base of the closed hand to the tip of the extended thumb. It is used as a measure of the proper distance from the handle to the string when

the bow is reinforced or strung.

Fletch: Placing the feathers on an arrow.

Fletcher: An arrow maker. Arrow maker.

Fletching: The feathers that guide the arrow in flight.

Flight Arrow: A long, light arrow with very small feathers or vanes. Used in distance shooting.

Flirt: A jerking or bouncing movement of an arrow from its theoretical line of flight.

Follow the string – a bow that has taken a permanent set in the direction of the drawing.

Floo Floo: An arrow used to shoot with wings. It is usually feathered with a full whorl. The size of the feathers is such that the flight distance is short.

Shoe: A hardwood butt at the butt end of a wooden shafted arrow.

Gold: Bullseye on the regulation four foot circular target. A circle nine and three-fifths inches in diameter.

Grip: The part of the bow that is held in the shooting hand.

Chicken Feathers: The two feathers, usually of the same color, that are not at right angles to the nock of the arrow.

High Bracing: When the fistmel distance exceeds seven inches, it is better to brace an arch high than low.

Hold: Pause at the full draw position before releasing the arrow.

Home: When the arrow is fully drawn with the pyle even with the back of the bow, it is said to be “home”.

Horns: Bow points made of animal horn into which the bowstring nock is cut.

Articulated Bows: Same as a carriage bow.

Kick: A jolt felt when shooting a bow. Usually due to unevenly tillered bow blades.

Lady Paramount – A lady assistant to the field captain. She in charge of the women’s shooting line or division at a tournament.

Laminate Bow: A bow that is built in layers. It can consist of different types of wood, wood and metal, wood and

fiberglass etc.

End: Half of the arc. From the handle or hilt to the tip Upper and lower limbs.

Loose: The act of shooting. Letting the stretched bowstring slide

of the fingers that shoot.

National Archery Association. (NAA): National Association of Target Archers.

National Field Archery Association. (NFAA): National Field Archers Association.

Nocks: The grooves in the tips of the limbs of a bow into which the bowstring fits, also the groove in the fletched end of an arrow.

Nock Point: The point on the bowstring where the arrow nock rests.

Overbowed: A bow with a higher draw weight than the archer can shoot correctly.

Overdraw – To stretch the bow beyond the arrow length for which the bow is designed.

Overstrung: when the fist is exceeded by the use of a bowstring that is too short.

Pair: Two arrows and one spare, also three feathers.

Pennant: A small flag with the fly longer than the hoist. Placed on the target line on a staff to indicate the direction and speed of the wind at the targets.

Petticoat: The outer edge of the last or white ring of the target has no scoring value.

Pyle: The metal tip attached to the head of the arrow shaft, the arrowhead. Anglo-Saxon (pil) meaning dart, also spelled pile.

Pin: A very small knot in bow woods, especially yew or osage.

Pinch: Crush the arch fibers by compression. See Chrysal.

Pinch: To squeeze the arrow between the drawing fingers.

Pin Hole: The center of the target’s gold, i.e. dead center.

Point Blank: The act of aiming directly at the target.

Aim Point: An object that an archer aims at by looking above the arrowhead.

Quiver: A container for arrows. Shape, size and materials vary, can be worn at the waist, over the shoulder, across the bow or on the bow arm.

Quiver, Earth: In the simplest form, a metal rod about 18 inches long, pointed at one end and a loop formed at right angles to the stem at the other end. Inserted

on the ground, the arrows can be dropped through the loop and drawn one at a time.

Scope: The terrain used in archery competitions. Also called Field Course.

Recurve Bow: A bow that bends back from a straight line at the ends of the limbs.

Reflex Bow: Unstrung and held in a shooting position, the limbs of the bow curve away from the archer.

Release: Same as Loose.

Round: A fixed number of shots at a certain distance or set of distances.

Rover: An archer who is dedicated to field shooting. See Roaming.

Roving: Shoot over fields and forests at natural targets.

Run: When just one of the strands that make up the bowstring frays, stretches, or breaks, the string is said to have a run.

Sap Wood: The wood immediately below the bark.

Self: Used in reference to a bow or arrow made from a single piece of wood, that is, self bow, self arrow.

Service: Winding or coiling the bowstring at the hooking points to protect the bowstring from wear.

Shaft: The main body or section of the arrow. The term “feathered shaft” is frequently used in print to designate an arrow.

Shaft: That section of the shaft to which the feathers are attached.

Shaking: Longitudinal crack in a bow stave.

Shooting Glove – A three-fingered glove used to protect the shooting fingers.

Shooting Tab – A flat piece of leather designed to be worn on the shooting fingers for protection.

Whorl: The curved position where the feathers meet the arrow shaft.

Spine: The springy quality in an arrow that allows it to bend as it passes the bow in flight and then return to its original shape.

Stacked Arch-‘ An arch with an oval cross section. The one in which the thickness of the extremities is little greater than the width.

Steele: Same as the shaft.

Tab: See shooting tab.

Tackle: An archer’s equipment: bow, arrows, quiver, tabs, strings, etc.

Takedown: See Chariot Bow.

Rudder: Shape the bow to the proper curvature. To carve an arc.

Toxophyllite: Archery fan or devotee. It derives from the Greek toxen meaning bow and philos meaning love.

Turn: A term used to describe an arc that has a turn to the right.

or to the left of the string. Underboived: A bow that has very little draw weight for the bow.

goalkeeper.

Unit: Fourteen targets from an itinerant field course.

Result: The last shot in an archery contest.

Vane: The web or expanded flat part of a feather. Extended plastic flat surfaces attached to a shaft to serve as a feathering.

Wand: A two-inch-wide wooden stick, placed upright on the ground. Six feet tall. It is used as a mark to shoot at.

Weight: The weight in grains of an arrow. See also Drawing Weight.

Whip Ended: A bow that has limbs that are too weak at the tips.

Beat: See Serve.

Alternatively, it can be a clever use of existing artwork you have at home, or redesigning parts of the interior and exterior. The goal of the artistic use of feng shui is to achieve the most beneficial flow of energies in your facility.

The feng shui for a living room will be different from that of a kitchen, a bedroom, or the garden. First, you need to make sure that each room in your home has the right combination of shapes and colors. This will help attract and retain positive energies and eliminate negative ones. The following are some tips.

Bedroom Feng Shui Art: The golden rule of Feng Shui is to avoid oversaturation of the bedroom with bright and annoying colors, which can violate its tranquility.

You can create a serene and relaxing atmosphere in the bedroom by using muted shades of purple, lilac, yellow, blue, white and gray. You should also try to avoid sharp angles and geometric shapes in the bedroom. Choose a wooden bed over metal, as metal conducts electricity, which repels positive Chi energy. Choose soft bedding and bedspreads in pastel colors. Consider using crystal balls, pretty curtains and drapes, and red decorative items (red pillows or candles). Red is the color of love and warmth.

The ceiling can be decorated with stars. Try to avoid large plants, aquariums, fountains, and equipment (computers, televisions, and game consoles).

Kitchen Feng Shui Art: The kitchen should not have too much red, pink or orange. These are the colors of the fire element, which can provoke fights. It is best to use light and cold colors: white, light green, light blue, etc. The kitchen combines the elements of fire and water. According to this, the best color is white, as it balances fire and water. Stainless steel kitchen appliances and accessories are also added to this balance.

Some kitchens have fluorescent lighting, which is popular due to its bright light and low cost. However, fluorescent light is bad for the kitchen, as it flickers constantly and negatively affects the eyes and nervous system (it can increase blood and intraocular pressure and cause headaches). If you can’t do without fluorescent lighting in the kitchen, consider adding at least one regular incandescent light bulb.

Living room Feng Shui Art: It is important to balance the living room. You can energize it using glass, create a sense of depth using mirrors, and enhance energy flows using plants, wall lights, and hoods.

If your living room is the most active room, increase Active Yang. If it is a place of rest, calm Yin increases. The optimal is the combination of rich and calm colors, dynamic and smooth forms. Try to use more natural light, which should be bright but not too sharp. Artificial lighting (table lamps, chandeliers and sconces) will help regulate the intensity of light according to your mood.

To soften the room, choose furniture with rounded corners. Plants (including climbers), drapes, and accessories will also help smooth out sharp corners.

The Coastal Cottage Beach House is a sanctuary of warmth, comfort and serenity, simple and understated yet alive with its creative design elements. An exciting combination of farmhouse and coastal design that blends elements of old world rustic charm and clean new lines, using natural reclaimed wood, grounding metal, and distressed antique furniture to give your home a clean, earthy look. The coastal style brings elements of water into your home and brings vibes of peace and tranquility. These two styles merge to bring an earthy yet invigorating interior to your home.

This beautiful living room with a rustic blue patina sideboard and a huge antique arched floor mirror brings in elements of coastal farmhouse style. The stunning farmhouse antique doorway coffee table uses reclaimed woods and studded iron, and the airy and cool translucent sheer drapes give a coastal feel to the room. Turquoise, aqua, and teal pillows on a white daybed provide a luxurious, relaxed atmosphere.

The kitchen is the main focus of the house, since we all love a well-prepared meal and there is nothing like a family cooking together. The dining table is custom made with antique doors carved with beautiful unique details. With eight stylistic chairs, each upholstered in different fabrics, individually selected by each family member, the uniqueness of the design is quaint and exotic. Warm red cashmere mixed with teal blues brings out the patina of the old woods on the table. Sheer white checkered drapes and beach greenery add to the coastal vibe. Ultra modern stainless steel appliances and of course the table would be incomplete without vintage glass bottles and mason jars. Shells and driftwood complete the setting.

Bring the tranquility of the beach to your home office with these antique natural wood visors carved with flowers and ocean waves. The office table is made of vintage brass clad doors and the legs are painted a deep ocean blue. State-of-the-art computers and a huge TV screen hang in front of the desk for virtual meetings. A magnificently detailed, massive arched bookcase houses her collection of books, shells, and driftwood, while the office chair upholstered in twill washed blue and sparkling white is the coastal element. Rustic, earthy cabinets with vintage carved lime floral details play off the blue blown glass jar holding a beautiful arrangement of palm fronds and pampas grass.

An ID card scanner is an electronic device that reads data stored on a driver’s license data strip and displays it on a screen. Many can also scan state and military IDs. An ID scanner clearly displays a customer’s age and makes it easy for a bouncer, bartender, or clerk to verify that the customer is old enough to purchase age-regulated products, such as tobacco or alcohol. ID card scanners are commonly used in bars, nightclubs, liquor stores, casinos, police, and convenience stores.

There are many makes and models of ID scanners. In general, ID scanners are portable or countertop devices. They are typically about 10″ x 5″ x 3″ in size. An ID card scanner will have either a barcode reader, a magnetic stripe reader, or both. Machines that have both types of scanners will have two separate devices for reading each type of code.An ID scanner will have some type of visual display such as a small screen.Some scanners have small keyboards or touch screens for inputting data and controlling the device.

Barcode Readers Barcodes are machine-readable codes in a pattern of parallel lines of varying widths. They can also appear as a rectangle of randomly placed black shapes. This is called a 2D barcode and is used in approximately 40 states in North America. A barcode reader on an ID card scanner will either be a slot where the ID is inserted and removed (immersed), or a “point and shoot” infrared scanner (like a UPC reader at the grocery store) that emits a red light on the barcode. The best ID card scanners, in terms of speed and readability, have a slot barcode reader. These are more expensive to produce, but allow a perfect reading of the barcode every time. Point-and-shoot barcode readers often have a hard time concentrating on the barcode long enough to get a read before the card moves. They must also deal with the orientation of the license, the reflectivity of the surface, and the ambient light conditions. Most manufacturers address these issues by using a counter-mounted scanner and a target area to place the 2D barcode before scanning. This works in a fixed location environment, but is not practical in handheld/mobile applications. Many discount manufacturers of inferior ID scanning products contain this type of cheap barcode reader. In short, point-and-shoot ID scanners are impractical because it’s hard to hold an ID card and the scanner steady long enough to get a reading.

Magnetic Stripe Readers Magnetic stripes are a black band about 1/2″ wide that runs the entire length of an ID card. A magnetic stripe reader on an ID card scanner looks like a slot 1/8″ wide. To read a magnetic stripe ID, the magnetic stripe is slid through the slot. This is the same way credit cards are read.

Operation An ID scanner should be very easy to operate. For fast and simple operation, there should be no buttons to press to switch between the barcode scanner and the magnetic stripe scanner. There should also be no buttons to press to reset the device between scans. It should take no more than 0.5 to 2 seconds from card dip or swipe before data is displayed on the screen.

The typical ID scan procedure is as follows:

(1) turn on the ID card scanner;
(2) dip or swipe the identification through the barcode or magnetic stripe reader, or carefully align the barcode under a point-and-shoot scanner;
(3) card information is displayed on the screen;
(4) a visual or audible alarm is displayed if the identification is underage or expired;
(5) the operator compares the data displayed on the card reader with the data printed on the card to make sure everything matches;
(6) the operator returns the identification to the customer; and
(7) The machine is reset to a ready state, automatically on well designed machines and manually on poorly designed machines.

Some machines require a telephone or Internet connection in order to function.

Advanced Features High-tech ID card scanners retain a record of all IDs that are scanned. This can be useful for providing evidence that a particular ID was verified, for analyzing customer demographics, or for building a customer mailing list. Scan history can be viewed directly on the machine or downloaded to a spreadsheet on the computer. Some manufacturers charge a fee to download the scan history to a computer. Check with a manufacturer before purchasing an ID scanner to make sure the scan history is easily accessible.

An ID scanner should be easy to operate. Look for positive user reviews of an ID scanning product before you buy it.

Ready-to-assemble or RTA cabinets come with many benefits for the buyer. Although they may seem like a pain at first, they really aren’t when purchased from a quality supplier. Still, many people wonder what the appeal of this type of cabinet is compared to pre-assembled versions that would seem like a quick install and adjust method of putting together a kitchen.

RTA cabinets often get the stigma of being cheaply built, shoddy joinery, but that’s not the case. Today’s RTA cabinets have the same quality as their custom built counterparts. Most are not the wiser when it comes to telling the difference.

With the same amazing looks and better quality than pre-assembled options, there’s a lot to love about RTA cabinets for your next project. Not to mention, you’ll save money, which is always a plus!

Have a kitchen that dreams are made of
RTA cabinets are still built with the best materials, providing the quality one would expect from a custom cabinetmaker. However, they are much less expensive. There really is no downside when one considers that fact. Pre-assembled versions from big box stores often take weeks to receive, and custom cabinets obviously take a while to build.

• A builder or home owner will have their RTA cabinets in no time and even save on shipping because they don’t come in giant bulky boxes like pre-assembled ones.
• Choose from a wide range of styles and sizes, just because they’re ready to assemble doesn’t mean you have less to choose from
• All necessary parts and directions will come with the cabinets. All that is needed is a hammer and a screwdriver.
• Experience the pride of doing it yourself. It can also feel good to build something because there’s an added guarantee that it was done right.

Doors or Complete Cabinets?
The choice is up to the owner when it comes to replacing the entire cabinet or just the front of the door. Many opt for the complete package, since they can be sure that they all come from the same manufacturer with the guarantee. Failure to do so may void your warranty, so it’s worth checking.

Although doors may be cheaper, RTA cabinets are very easy to assemble and give one a whole new look, which is very attractive! Why not try it?

Custom or standard?
Many prefer traditional front-frame cabinets, while others like a more contemporary look; this is a relatively easy option. Once the style is decided, the next decision would be to make or customize. The stocks are similar to what one would see in a big box store and are fairly basic with the same design and different finishes. As said before, they are cheaper and offer minimal options.

Custom RTA cabinets are much more unique, providing the buyer with a greater choice of materials, colors, and sizes, as well as other elements. They may take a little longer, but if the owner is sure of what he wants and can only come to order, then the wait is worth it.

If one is lucky, they will align with a company that caters to both! They can also get custom cabinets like RTA cabinets. This means they won’t have to wait forever for their order and can often have it delivered right to the curb for the ultimate in convenience.

Give RTA a try
Remember, the RTA cabinets of 2015/2016 are much better than those of yesteryear! Don’t plan for a wobbly version of the cabinets you want. They are made quite sturdy and come with all the quality parts for assembly.

Manufacturers have made great strides in the RTA arena so that savvy shoppers can save money and still have the cabinets they want.