The vast majority of counterfeit Morgan dollars are altered specimens of less expensive issues to mimic the low-supply, high-demand counterparts. The most frequently altered Morgan dates are: 1884-S, 1886-O, 1889-CC, 1892-S, 1893-S, 1894-P, Proof of 1895, 1895-S, 1896-O, 1896-S, 1897-O, 1901-P, 1903-S and 1904-S.

There isn’t enough space in an article like this to go into detail about all the minute distinctions between Morgan dollar issues. What I want to point out is that determining if the coin you are looking at is real or fake is pretty easy when you know what to look for.

The most common giveaway for altered silver dollars is that the mintmark is not part of the field, but attached to it. In the case of mint mark removal, the flow lines rotate or become a mint mark that no longer exists. Drawing flow lines requires high magnification.

A complete knowledge of how each coin issue was produced is essential to detect its alterations. Study where the cracks appeared on the genuine coin, which will not appear on the altered piece.

There are often minute gouges or polished areas that are present on each coin of a particular mint or die variety, which will not appear on the alteration. Gouges are easy to spot when you know what to look for.

Mint marks can be telltale signs of tampering. For example, a small rounded “S” was used from 1879 to 1900 and a differently styled “S” from 1901 to 1904.

Watching for subtle differences in Morgan dollars is a primary way to spot a counterfeit or tampering. A genuine 1893-S will have the “1” of the date placed directly in line with a denticle on the edge. The 1893 “3” is slightly higher than the other numbers and is also lined with a denticle.

An 1894-O is often passed off as an 1894-P due to the removal of the mint mark. For starters, look for features like the venerable New Orleans weak attack. A genuine 1894-P has a heavy strike and 2 gouges on the “R” of LIBERTY.

Tire sizes and features are different between some of the mints. That is, the San Francisco Morgans have a flattened, rounded edge, while the Philadelphia specimens had a sharp, almost wire edge.

It helps to have detailed, close-up photos of the coins you want to authenticate. There is a lot of detailed information about the unique characteristics that the genuine coin possesses that an altered coin does not possess. A good reference is the PCGS book: “Official Guide to Coin Classification and Counterfeit Detection”.

When you have reliable information about the genuine article, comparing the coin you are validating is pretty straightforward. There is a certain personal satisfaction in validating or condemning a coin. Check out my other articles on counterfeit detection for other ways to check the authenticity of coins.